Efficiency of a continuous height distribution model of sunscreen film geometry to predict a realistic sun protection factor
Ferrero, L.; Pissavini, M.; Marguerie, S.; Zastrow, L.
Journal of Cosmetic Science 54(5): 463-481
2003
ISSN/ISBN: 1525-7886 PMID: 14605688 Document Number: 556707
Irregularities in the geometry of sunscreen films spread on rough areas, like skin, is often presented as being the main cause of the degree of UV absorption achieved by the UV filters that are inside. Until now, only the step film, a model invented by O'Neill, was simple enough to calculate UV data close to in vitro experimental data, after determination of a limited number of fraction areas with their corresponding thickness. However, such models are obviously too simple to represent a real situation. In the present work, more complex distributions of film thickness were calculated, with an infinite number of individual heights. Realistic models were achieved via a probability function. The consequences for UV absorption were deduced, and the calculated UV data were compared to experimental in vitro data on sunscreen products measured after being spread on a roughened PMMA substrate. The latter substrate was previously selected for its ability to achieve a good correlation with in vivo SPF. An optimized version of the continuous mathematical model was finally determined in order to achieve UV curves, similar in shape and intensity to the experimental ones. The latter model can be used to predict realistic SPF values.